Braised lamb shank with caramelized fennel and apricots

The year we drove up to Idaho for Christmas, along with our gifts and miscellaneous items packed in the trunk, we packed our prized 13¼-quart Le Creuset round French oven.  It's a monster, weighing in at 22 lbs. empty (it could be over 50 lbs. filled!).  It is probably the only non-industrial pot capable of braising up to 15 servings of lamb shanks.* And that's why we have it.  

We prepared this recipe for the whole family at the holidays.  Truth be told, it didn't turn out great.  Once you stack up the lamb shanks in a deep pot, some immersed in the braising liquid, some completely above it, it doesn't necessarily cook evenly, and I thought the outcome was lackluster.  On the other hand, I think the diners were not as critical as the cook, and, besides, I'm convinced that it's not the fault of the recipe (I doubt we could have found fresh apricots in Idaho in December, either).  So here it is for Christmas memories and for future shared enjoyment.  Made in smaller batches, I have little doubt it will turn out better.

This is another recipe from Workin'—More Kitchen Sessions with Charlie Trotter, which is one of our favorite cookbooks.

Serves 4 with this recipe.

*CORRECTION:  I just found out that Le Creuset is now making a 26-lb. 15½-quart oval French oven, known as "the goose pot."  That name gives a sense how large it is. Tempting! But I'm going to hold out for the turkey pot. And a custom-designed kitchen hoist that installs in the kitchen ceiling.

INGREDIENTS

Lamb shanks:

• 4 lamb shanks
  
• salt and freshly ground pepper
  
• 1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  
• 1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
  
• 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
  
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
  
• 1 head of garlic, peeled and chopped
  
• 1 cup red wine
  
• 1 cup chopped dried apricots
  
• 2 quarts chicken stock
  
• 2 fresh apricots, thinly sliced
  
• 1½ teaspoons sherry wine vinegar
  

Caramelized fennel:

• 2 large fennel bulbs, tops trimmed and bulbs cut into eighths (also, reserve ¼ cup chopped fennel fronds for garnish)
  
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  
• 2 bay leaves
  
• 2 sprigs thyme
  
• 2 dried red Thai chiles
  
• 1 tablespoon sugar
  
• 3 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
  
• 4 fresh apricots, cut into eighths
  
• 2 tablespoons butter
  
• salt and freshly ground pepper
  

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the lamb shanks:  Preheat the oven to 275°F.  Season the shanks with salt and pepper.  Sear the shanks in the olive oil in a large roasting pan or French oven over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, or until browned on all sides.  Remove the shanks and set aside.  Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic to the same pan and cook for 10 minutes, or until golden brown.  Deglaze the pan with the wine, add the dried apricots, and return the lamb shanks to the pan.  Add the stock, cover tightly, and braise in the oven for 6 to 8 hours, or until the meat is very tender.  Remove the lamb shanks from the pan.  Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced to 2 cups. Add the fresh apricots and vinegar and cook for 5 minutes.

Prepare the fennel:  Preheat the oven to 400°F.  Place the fennel, olive oil, bay leaves, thyme and chiles in a roasting pan and roast uncovered for 15 minutes.  Add the sugar, vinegar, fresh apricots and butter.  Cover, decrease the temperature to 325°F, and continue to roast for 15 minutes longer, or until the fennel is caramelized and tender.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Plating: Arrange 1 lamb shank and some of the fennel mixture in the center of each plate.  Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the lamb shank and around the plate.  Sprinkle with the fennel fronds.

Wine Notes

Braised lamb always says syrah to me.  A more Rhone-styled California syrah, such as the 2003 Lagier-Meredith Napa syrah from Mt. Veeder, with nicely structured mineral and earthy notes would do very well.